Thursday, November 17, 2011

Well winter is setting in....I did manage to put the drive wheels on. I'm trying to clear out my shop. Trying to make room for working on the ceiling panels and cabinets and tile floor. I wasn't as ready to go back to work as I thought I was! After Christmas I should be ready to work more inside!
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Monday, October 10, 2011

There were some questions on air line lengths for air throttles!
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Wednesday, May 18, 2011

Return register for heat pumps.
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One of the air registers purchase on ebay, these rotate 360 degree, they mount in the ceiling panel and press into the duct, there will be a foam donute to seal the duct and register. As the ceiling panel goes up the press right into the duct! Every panel is will be fitted with what ever associate item going in that panel etc, speaker, light register, return duct, before final installation!
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This is the area above the ceiling, showing heat pump duct, and electrical feed. It also shows the transition piece for the ductwork. The duct on the right is the return, on the left is supply. There is 5" of area height above the ceiling.
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This is one of the can lights in the living room area. This panel was cut to see just how much head room was left when mounted, and it also was a test for hole saw sizing for the can light!
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Looking up at the duct work for the roof heat pumps!
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Another view to the rear. I put the co-pilots seat back out of the way, making it easier to bring in the plywood panels.
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This is the kitchen area. Notice that the window on the left is shorter? This is where the kitchen sink will be, it gives you a window to look out while washing dishes! (I've done these before (washing dishes) day dreaming area for sure).
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The white plastic fitting here is the vent for the fresh water tank. This is on the passenger side of the bus. I haven't purchased the vent caps yet, but they are on the to do list! If you notice I glued every plywood joint. I have some sanding to do......but my belt sander and smooth grit paper should make short work of this.
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Passenger side. I may just start cutting the ceiling panels and getting them to size and beveled. Over the cabinets in all areas there will be plywood for support (both walls and ceilings) hopefully no squeaking or road sounds!
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Looking forward, the small black fitting is for the kitchen sink. I've used the Heat Pump in the front area as the outside temps are starting to increase, even without the ceiling panels installed.......right now 1 AC keeps it comfortable working inside!
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The black plastic pipe will be the drain from the bathroom sink (kitchen also) just inside the bathroom there is a "T" fitting to go through the floor and into the grey water tank.
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Looking into the bathroom! I have to pull the hardiebacker up and use the thin set mortar and screws, to complete the floor before installing tile.
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Drivers side bedroom front wall. All of the walls are glued and have self tapping screws in the metal studs for the wall. If you look over the window the top piece of trim has not been installed, these will also hold the mini-blinds over the windows, I just haven't made them yet!
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Front wall of bedroom. Receptacle is for television. The window trim and shims these will be drilled then screwed to gether. All of the windows have been cut out( plywood that is in the interior).
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I finished the 2nd layer of flooring in the bedroom. This is the bed support and access to rear of engine. It will also be storage under the bed.
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Rear wall in bathroom. There will be a cabinet in this corner, with a base cabinet 48" x 24" with sink and mirror/w light (wiring hanging out of the wall).
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Moving right along. The furniture is all covered..its a pain moving around but I ran out of space in the shop. Wood working is such a mess in the shop anyway!
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Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Outside looking at the handle. There are two keys one for the latch and the other is a dead bolt! The red area drawn out will be the entry pad, I have two remote key flobs, this system also blinks the lights when the door is locked or unlocked allows for ignition kill and several other features!

The electric door locks and door handle, I will build a recessed area around the door handle on the outside to help center the locks.

The black pipe is the drain for both bath and kitchen sinks!

Getting ready to cut the toilet hole in the floor.

The shower pan is ready for water proofing and tile!

This is the closet/drawer area in the bath room my tile is stacked up in the floor, I have completely laid the tile out to adjust both forward/rearward and side/side. After the walls are all finished I will sand down the wood putty, size the walls for wall paper, then put the tile floor down.

Another view this window on the right, is larger by 2 inches to allow for installing refrigerator and other large items, the window will come out!

Looking forward the white pipe is the black and grey tank vent. I will move the electrical box for the microwave (yeah its in the way).

Fresh water vent will go up through roof. I found a vent cap called a cyclone vent on ebay, I will need two of these one for fresh water and one for grey and black water!

I had to run furring strips to bring this wall out to miss my electrical coming down the wall!

Tuesday, March 29, 2011

I'm just glad to be posting again! Over at the Mak board, I was told I must be a millionaire........funny stuff, it has taken me almost 7 years to get where I am. If you spread the cost over that time.......it comes to about 6k a year. I'm sure millionaires don't build their very own 30 year old bus! I've been on a budget from the beginning! I spend hours and hours searching the internet finding good deals on very good equipment. If you consider what I paid for the bus................8K plus my many hours of eating rust, saw dust, pinched fingers, busted knuckles, foreign objects in the eyes......numerouse cuts and bruises....I've had fun and even managed to learn a great deal! Am I a millionaire?.......not even close!

On the floor is 1/2" hardiebacker for the tile with another layer of 1/2" plywood under that. The first layer is sika'd and screwed down with self tapping screws. The hardiebacker gets a layer of mortar (thin set) then it gets screwed down with 1 1/4" hardiebacker screws. When the tile goes down it is with a thin set mortar adhesive then grouted!

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